No Difference between Organic Food and Chemically Grown Food?

No Difference between Organic Food and Chemically  Grown Food?

Here is the Radio show of this article

In a recent LA Times article, a columnist wrote that there is no difference between Organically grown food and Conventionally grown food. He cites several studies that prove that there is no difference between the nutritional levels and he cites doctors and they all say the same thing “Eating Conventionally grown produce is not only safe but just as nutritional”. 

  It is besides that fact that it totally ignores environmental issues, health issues of not just the consumer but the workers that pick it as well as the fact that powerful business forces are at work here to keep the public confused.

  Lets ignore these issues (for now) and lets take a look at what is wrong with this idea that organic food and conventionally grown food is equal.

First off, not every organic farmer knows what they are doing just like not every one that makes compost knows what they are doing.

You are only as good a gardener (farmer) as the compost you make. Not all compost are equal just like not all organic farmers are equal. Some are actual organic farmers while others are in name only.

Many farmers have decided to “Go Organic” because they will then be able to sell their “products” for more but if I were to ask them just one question and if they failed that question then they will have not only the same problems as the conventionally grown but their “produce” will not be any more nutritional than them; especially if the conventional farmer either does not make or use compost but also does not apply rock dust .

There is a basic law of nature that says,“You get out what you put in”. You want trace minerals? Then put that into the soil; however you cannot just throw rock dust every where and expect the minerals to then become available to the plants.

Even Rock Dust. All rock dusts are not the same, some are rich in calcium but low in iron; it all depends from what part of the world and how it was made that determines what minerals it has.

The article as well as the studies do not even mention soil depletion, I wonder why? If your soil is depleted of minerals then the produce grown on it will also depleted in minerals.

There is a key to this problem, in the article which mentions taste.  The better the taste the more minerals it has (i.e. see Brix levels Vs Mineral levels in past article).

Taste tells us we should eat it or not. We have developed over the years to eat what tastes sweet and not eat what taste bitter. Pests have developed along the same lines except that nature in her wisdom made it such that when a plant has high Brix, it will have higher sugar, which in turn means higher mineral content, which in turn means higher complex carbohydrates (insects cannot eat simple carbohydrates and it is this simple carbo that plants get if they are fed high nitrogen fertilizers, they grow fast but are weak and deficient in minerals).

When I started my business back in  1956, I heard the same (from the forces) that chemical and organic produce are equal in nutritional value and whats a little pesticide? That has not changed over the many years. You really want to know, then test real organic farmers like Death Smith Valley , Rodale or The Bio-Dynamic Institute and compare that! All of the studies, including the most recent study (which really just studied all the studies) are flawed in that they were not asking the right questions so they all found the same results and just passed that along. Did any study actually grow the different types of food and see for themselves?  That takes knowledge of growing which most do not have and so there whole study is based on a false assumption.

Please read

to get you started. I will write more next week!

Andy Lopez

Invisible Gardener

Any questions? Email

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How to Control Tree Diseases Organically

How to Control Tree Diseases Organically

listen to the radio show version of this article here

Many Tree diseases are fatal and many trees die from these diseases. You might say this is perfectly natural for trees to die from diseases (just like you have been telling me that we do not need to feed trees!), but I do not agree  entirely.

Yes, if you take all humans out of the picture, then I would say, sure diseases and pests are natures way of removing the weak and the sick and that is perfectly natural: but throw in we humans and you have a different story.

Humans have not been good gardeners of the earth. They have been destroying everything they touch. Everything in nature depends on everything else. What we do affects all living beings sooner or later and trees are living beings, too, and what we do to the environment directly affects these trees in their ability to stay healthy, and pest and disease free.

We spread diseases by not properly cleaning our tools. We spread diseases by ridding the soil of all beneficial micro organisms, which then allows diseases to take hold in the soil (all tree diseases start in the soil first). We apply chemical fertilizers either directly onto the tree or onto the soil, chemicals cause stress in the tree, imbalance in the soil and helps to spread diseases and pests thru the use of high nitrogen fertilizers.

High nitrogen fertilizers makes for rapid growth but also stresses out the plants making them a perfect “food source” for insects.

When a plant is food for insects, it is not food for humans. Sure we don’t eat trees but the point here is that if the insects think its food for them then the tree or plant is weak and mineral deficient.

We eat for only one real reason- trace minerals which our bodies need for proper health. Try to eat rocks and you will see why we have to eat something that ate something that ate something else (food chain).

Ok, Ok, to the main subject of this article:

In order to keep your trees from getting diseases you first must control your gardener or tree company. You must keep them from passing a disease to your tree thru them not properly cleaning their cutting tools in between trees. This is the number one way tree diseases are spread in the garden (maybe even in nature).

The next thing you need to pay attention to is the health of the soil.

The good guys and the bad guys do not live in the same place in the soil! Really, its that simple. So if you apply rock dust, a good live compost (most compost sold in market is dead (especially if sealed in plastic) and it is live with microbes ) and then you apply a nice acid mulch (like azalea/gardenia mix). An acid mulch is important since our soil is clay and very alkaline.

Beneficial microbes only live within a small ph range of 6.4 to 6.8. Outside that zone, they will slowly die off. Chemicals destroy the natural balance of the soil and it is thru this imbalance that the bad bacteria will thrive.

It is also important to provide the tree will proper mineral sources such as regular foliar spraying . This will help to keep the Brix level of the tree high, and reduce stress, and allow the tree to handle any environmental stress. The foliar must be organic and not chemical. I use Superseaweed as my foliar spray.

Some Basic tips:

Control water. Allow trees to dry in between watering. Better to under water then over water.

Control gardener or whom ever is cutting. Must clean tool between each cutting and especially between trees and customers.

Live Soil provides you with the needed soil microbes.

Compost applications will keep your soil alive (ask if rock dust is added to compost during production, if so, you wont have to add it yourself).

Rock Dust applications once or twice per year provides the minerals.

Acid Mulch protects the soil and holds water longer so less water less often.

Foliar sprayings provide the trees with the minerals needed to stay healthy and fight off any diseases.

Use only Organic Fertilizers. Avoid high nitrogen .

Andy Lopez

Invisible Gardener

Any questions? Email me

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Invisible Gardener Secrets ABC News 7

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How to make your own Organic Fertilizer Video

Here is a video I made on How you can make your own Organic Fertilizer….

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Dont Panic Its Organic

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3 Tips on conserving up to 50% water and still have a beautiful garden.

3 Tips on conserving up to 50% water and still have a beautiful garden.

Tip 1… Do a water check on your sprinkler system. Turn each section on and look for any broken lines or leaks and fix it. That alone will save you a great deal of water. Gardeners do not turn on the sprinkler systems and check for water leaks so you must either do it yourself or tell them to do this once a month to keep an eye out for leaks and broken lines. The other day, I was at a home in Malibu. The homeowner said she was having a consistent $3,000 a month water bill and was wondering how she could save, and reduce her bill. The bill itself didn’t bother her, it was more on how she could do her part to reduce her usage. The first thing I did was turn on each section and take a close look for any signs of water shooting out, and guess what?  The first line I turned on, water came shooting up into the air at least 15 feet! I turned around and looked at her, and she looked at me. Turns out she had many things broken from sprinkler heads to the lines itself. Now her bill is around $1200 at month and she is working on reducing that even more by following these three simple tips!

Tip 2… Convert every thing over to drip. Using a drip system will further reduce water usage by 10% to 25%! There are several different types of drip systems but I would go with the newer versions which have the drip heads built into them and they are space 123 inches apart. The drip will water 1 foot on either side as well as good foot into the ground. Drips typically run for longer at 1 gallon per hour. Usually around 20 to 40 min each time and they should be used once or twice a week depending on where and what is being grown. If you place a drip system into a raised bed, you will be using 75% less water, and grow 4 to 7 times more food! Drip systems work well with all types of plants from flowers to trees. They not only reduce water but also reduce insects and diseases while reducing plant stress due to drought conditions and Santa Anna winds.

Tip 3.. Get all the water below ground. Did you know that 75% of the water (if used above ground) goes up into the air? Simply by placing the water below ground, you are saving that 75% and will actually need to use less water because you will not be losing any of it to evaporation? So I would not only bury the lines about 4 inches below ground, but I would also then apply rock dust, compost and the mulch right over it. I would do this several times per year until it is completely covered with no signs of barren soil! I would apply  the rock dust, compost and mulch right over the previous application since most of it will tend to disappear due to factors like heavy winds that tend to blow things away! Once you have a good layer, you can apply a heavier mulch like wood chips to form the top layer. By the way, even a lawn should get the water put below ground. You simply bury the drip line about 1 foot below, and lay down pattern to cover all.

Andy Lopez

Invisible Gardener

Any questions? Email me

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A Country Visitor 528 Hz


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